B: The figure wears a mantle over the left shoulder fringe at the bottom Early Dynastic Period III, Ur VII, (Woolley, 1976: 83). 2600- 2500 BC), from Nippur temple of Inanna (Level VIIB), the Sumerian goddess of abundance, Metropolitan Museum (Legrain, 1927: 224). 3: A: Standing female worshiper, Early Dynastic IIIa, (ca. The soldiers wear the same skirt under their cloaks (Fig. The noble men, sitting opposite the major figure, and the men in the second register all wear fringed robes. At the same register, a pig-tailed woman (probably a singer) is depicted wearing a plain fringed robe (Fig. Only the major figure, sitting at the upper register wears a kaunakes robe (Fig. The standard of Ur which represented different social classes shows that different social groups wear distinct groups of clothes. The textiles shown in the figures represent the person’s social status. 2900- 2250 BCE), several types of textiles appeared in the iconography of the period, as seen in the robes and kaunakes dresses. With the development of the priest-kings during the Early Dynasty I-II (ca. Warka (ancient Uruk), southern Mesopotamia, Jemdet Nasr period, 3000-2900 BCE. 3000–2750 BC, (Hansen, 2003: 9), B: A pig-tailed woman (probably Innana) represented in the top register of the sacred or votive vase of Warka. 1A-B).įig 1: A: Blue stone recording of the first woman known by name, Jemdet Nasr–Early Dynastic period, ca. Another contemporary image, the blue stone in the British Museum, as well as the lady associated with Innana on the upper register of the Warka Vase in the Iraq Museum, illustrate ankle-length belted dresses made of plain textiles (Fig. 3300-2900 BCE), are depicted wearing plain clothing, although on a small scale. The pig-tailed ladies, portrayed on seals during the Late Uruk and Jemdet-Nasr periods (ca. They are rendered plain, with straight lines, zigzag lines, diagonal lines, or with leaves/feathers, which are known as ‘kaunakes.’ These distinctive styles used in textile representation provide insight into the different types of textiles themselves. Textiles are represented in the scenes engraved on cylinder seals and sealings in the form of cloths/garments/cloaks on the figures or in the statues of the period under study. The main source of evidence for this part is iconography and imagery documents.Īlong with the reference to various types of textiles in written sources, iconography is the other source of evidence for textiles, although this is quite rare. This is the second part of the blog entitled “Textile, Fashion, and Gender Semiotic Studies in the Ancient Near East” this part deals with the socio-cultural aspects of the textile functions by women the ancient societies. Part 2: Socio-cultural aspects of textiles and women
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